Heck, you can even do it in Blender with a 3D file of the armour!ĥ. If you own Pepakura Designer or Armorsmith, you'll be able to take 3D models or existing Pepakure files and modify them to suit foam better. If you have two edges of foam that come together and there's a groove where the two meet, you can sand down the tips of each edge to get that depth.Ĥ. But you can make those details out of different thicknesses of foam, and grooves can be burnt (with a soldiering iron/wood burner) or scored and heated to open up. With high-detailed pepakura templates, they may require you to make tiny little details, or grooves in surfaces. That way the seam is neat, the angle looks good and there's hot glue keeping it together.ģ. For sharp angles (as opposed to curves), one trick, which is a little untidy behind the scenes but still works, it to cut both edges on a 45 degree angle, glue the tips of the edges that are seen and then on the back, use hot glue to fill in any voids and position the edge to the angle you want while it cools. When working with foam, you don't need those paper sides of pepakura, as the actual foam thickness will make up for it.Ģ. With pepakura, you'll be folding over sides that may only be a few mm thick. Take into consideration the thickness of foam. I'll give you some basic pointers to start:ġ. Definitely not asking too much - sometimes Pepakura to foam adaptation can be tricky.
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